Sottoriva

The longest sequence of medieval porticos in Verona, running along the Adige in the heart of the city — older, more authentic than any street in the centre. In the morning the Veronesi pass through with their groceries. At noon the construction workers eat there. In the evening the osterias under the porticos open their doors: wine by the glass in a boccalino, cicchetti, no laminated menu, regulars who all know each other. There's no table for tourists — not because they don't want them, it's just that the place is always full.