Two churches, one on top of the other. The lower one is from the year 1000
San Fermo Maggiore
San Fermo Maggiore is technically two churches stacked one on top of the other. The lower church dates from around 1065 — Romanesque, with low barrel vaults, thick columns and an atmosphere of absolute silence. The upper Gothic church was built over it in the 14th century and contains the famous Brenzoni monument by Nanni di Bartolo with a fresco by Pisanello. Almost everyone who enters sees only the upper church. The lower one requires finding a staircase near the entrance and is almost always empty. The two churches feel like different civilizations, separated by three centuries and twenty steps.
Visitor Tip
Enter through the main door and immediately turn right to find the stairs to the lower Romanesque church. The upper Gothic church gets all the attention — the lower one is older, quieter, and almost always empty.