The neighbourhood across the Adige that no tourist map shows
Veronetta
Cross any bridge over the Adige and walk away from the centro storico. On the east bank of the river is Veronetta — the neighbourhood tourists never reach. It's the university quarter, full of inexpensive bars, studentski osterie, old churches without entrance fees and without queues, street art, and the steep narrow borghi that climb toward the hill. The Teatro Romano is here. The Santuario della Madonna di Lourdes is here. The bars open till midnight with the cheapest Soave in the city. The Veronesi who live here have the city to themselves in the evening.
Visitor Tip
Cross Ponte Pietra or Ponte Navi and turn away from the tourist signs. The neighbourhood is the university quarter — students, cheap aperitivo bars, and the narrow streets of the old borghi. No guides. No tourist traps.