Piazza delle Erbe Before Eight

After 9 in the morning, Piazza delle Erbe is a labyrinth of selfie sticks, souvenir stalls and tourist menus pinned to the walls of 16th-century palaces. Before 8, the same piazza is a market of vegetables, wildflowers and local cheeses — the Veronese greengrocers' stalls set up at dawn as their grandparents set them up. The medieval palms filter the light. The pigeons are still asleep. The city smells of bread and coffee. Just get up early.